Well.. I guess we are BS friends. Can’t respond with me in a “message shirt” 17 years ago my sons (together) all suggested 😱 I was to old for that type of shirt even if I’d been to a concert years earlier…. “Pink… “ who?

Sorry.. i don’t talk about it. Want to discuss sunyata?

Ahhh.. more of a decorative/artistic type not for heavy traffic. Oddly most people seem to get caught up with the view through/under the bridge.. the more true half circular the better.. some do have steps.. which would give you (possibly) counting steps and reflecting at each step..

BTW— I used to have access to Autodesk inventor anc did one resin of a Circa 1921 box car and some buildings like depot now I’m “trying to learn and love” Freecad… THEN I’ll consider printer.

Re brass: it was a learning and never done that before experience. I’ve had more fun with laser and resin impregnated Kraft paper stock but assembly can be an issue. I’m working toward CAD and a good 3D resin. A friend willing to test print for me like steps for a caboose bash:

I made a 3d N scale casting of a 1921 Southern Ry Hutchins N box car and several CNC cut structures. To print box car rivets I did make them a bit oversized.🤫🤫. Used Autocad Inventor. Below 3d steps for N scale caboose bash project🤪🤪

I didn’t find Tinkercad exactly up up to the task of dealing with complex multi-part “parts” that require precision to .001 accuracy during the creation and then transition to printing. I utilize spreadsheets from real world to Nscale example .224 in wide window laser cut

Found a pic near a depot I built.. tree partially on right is close to six inches as I recall armature is a bit of a Japanese Maple I trimmed. Added woodland clumps ..in stages

Since I have a few red,white, et al in that range.. the downside is leaf drop in autumn and passage of hurricanes. On my layout I model second growth on mountainsides.. n scale.

Surface tension and glue I tried didn’t always work and over time failed. That’s why window sashes in the Bryson depot are each individuals backed by very thin clear sheet.

I have lots of opinions but tend to do a bit of research looking for facts .. especially before condemn old men and manufacturers for my angst. So .. I have a part Design height .1756 vertical .1266 horizontal. Holes in back .013 side thickness .003. Think your printer can do a test?

Manufacturers make what sells and don’t care if it is wrong. That’s why I scratch build.

Btw, I don’t think 3D printing is the Magic panacea.. been doing it for over twenty years…also cnc and before that scratch builds.. mostly N scale.n

Before you begin I highly recommend Paul Mallory’s Bridge and Trestle Handbook (mine is circa 1976) and the more scale drawings you can make the better they make great templates and make and use jigs.. bridge below is all strip wood.. before styrene strips. Made jigs especially for lacing 😳

My reason for buying certain old (wooden) cabooses and bashing them. SRY with their metal cabooses went all bay window.. I “try” to model specifically the Murphy Branch,June,1942. Mountainous, single track, steam, tight curves and steep grades. Also tends to put a crimp in frivolous spending.. 🥳

And then forgot to add the photo😭

I was in an O&HO club in early 70s but had been exposed to N in late 60s. I like scenery.. so went N . Been modeling one road and location for years..LOT of scratch building .. below this “hotel” existed until around 1942.. when Fontana dam was flooded.. not sure exactly where outside facilities 😳

Hopefully.. the rough lean to for supplies, stream for cool water for condenser not easily seen. The condenser with the copper tubing, the man working the still and the dog near front almost on the facia board. I considered and discounted a small LED to be the cooking fire.🤨